Pedaling Steamboat Springs to Denver to catch a ride to Tour Divide - Day 2

     A good nights sleep and an uneventful night, I was about to crawl out of the tent when I heard something that sounded like hooves and the rustling of branches. A moose was in camp moving about slowly. The woman at the desk had said they are used to campers but I've met more than one angry moose in my day and wasn't going to risk an encounter. I sat in the tent quietly and waited until it sounded a bit further away, only then poking my head out to see a bull making it's way off into the willows. I immediately looked at my spokes... phew... no bike damage, the moose had sauntered through camp gracefully and not touched a thing.
     I was excited for the days ride, it would take me higher in elevation than I had been before on a bicycle. I live at 8,000' and am no stranger to riding in the high country, but Trail Ridge Road and it's 12,183' high point had me wondering what it was going to feel like pedaling a 45 lb bike uphill while slowly starting to asphyxiate. The one thing I knew is that this would take me higher than the highest point on my upcoming Tour Divide, so if I passed this test, I probably wasn't going to have any problems with elevation during the race.
     I packed up camp hastily and charged up my cell phone while in the process. Once I had everything back on the bike I departed the camping platform and headed over to the campground office to get some supplies. Upon entry the same woman that was at the desk the night before greeted me and asked me if I had seen the moose walking around by my camp. "Yes" I replied, and proceeded to recount the happenings of the morning. She then rang me up for a coffee, a few candy bars, some nutritional goodies, and some Gatorade. I thanked her for the nights stay, gulped down the coffee and headed out towards Rocky Mountain National Park.
     Almost immediately upon leaving the campground and rejoining the main road I came upon the sign I had seen the day before.

     It was only about another half mile until I came to the official entry and stopped for the obligatory bike shot.

Rocky Mountain National Park

     Pedaling onward, the mountains I was going to have to breach this day to get to the eastern slope of the front range were growing larger. I came to the National Park entry gate and paid my 10$ bicycle fee happily while gaping up at the mountains on a gorgeous morning. Soon after getting through, Trail Ridge Road officially began. I was psyched.

Trail Ridge Road

     Slowly rising across the flats the road went until finally it started the meat of it's climb. After going through just a few switchbacks I scared up a couple moose, they crashed off into the woods quickly and I kept riding, ever upward. I was watching my Garmin eTrex 30's elevation plot, knowing that I had about 3,500' of climbing ahead. The grade was manageable and steady, I was starting to hit a cadence that I felt would spin me up and over the high point.
     While winding my way up through the pine forests I was elated, "finally under way," I kept thinking to myself. There are few things more exhilerating to me than riding a bike in the mountains on a beautiful day with no other commitments to distract the mind. Puffing at a steady rate, I continued my pedaling mantra and smiled looking out at the powerful views through the trees. Up and up I went.
     I was feeling darn good and gaining elevation quickly, thinking to myself, "this isn't as hard as I thought it would be." Snow patches were starting to give way to snow pack, and after about 40 minutes I came to what would be my first Continental Divide crossing of the trip. Milner Pass. Milner Pass passes at 10,759', so it's not nearly the top of Trail Ridge Road. I took a quick picture and kept heading upward.

Milner Pass, yes, my bike is facing the wrong way in the picture. I was eastbound.

      The terrain was changing to alpine tundra as I approached Medicine Bow Curve. The high alpine views were commanding, as they should be from 11,640'!

The view from Medicine Bow Curve, RMNP

      One more good push after Medicine Bow Curve and I came to the Alpine Visitors Center. Now at 11,796' above sea level the weather was starting to have a mind of it's own. Above the visitors center was gathering a dark cloud  and the temperatures were dropping rapidly from cool, to downright cold. I stopped and hopped in for a coffee and a bike picture at the visitors center sign.

     When you are that high up, it seems like the weather moves very quickly, and although the dark cloud was still threatening when I finished my coffee, I continued onward and upward. Winding it's way through the high alpine tundra the panorama of views were almost like those from an airplane. The edge of the big dark cloud is visible in this next shot:

View from Trail Ridge Road at first curve past the Alpine Visitors Center

     Almost at the high point now the views continued to be amazing:

      And finally I reached the high point of Trail Ridge Road at 12,183':

The high point of Trail Ridge Road at 12,183'

      Passing a few other road riders headed in the other direction I made my way through the few ups and downs before the big descent and finally...Wahoo! I let gravity take hold and was in Estes Park almost before I knew it. One interesting moment on the descent was when I saw another bikepacker on his way up the hill... I don't know who this guy was but I swear it looked exactly like Matthew Lee, I did a double take, the bikepacker gave me the hi sign and I whizzed on by(upon further research Matthew was nowhere near RMNP at that time so it obviously was not him, I guess my mind was just Tour Divide crazy and I was seeing pieces of it everywhere). Once in Estes Park I stopped for an espresso and recharged my cell phone for a bit. I was getting ready for the next leg which would take me down the Peak-to-Peak scenic byway.
      The byway climbs out of Estes Park on one of the sketchier roads I've ever been on. Rubble strewn about the pavement, cars whizzing by coming out of blind corners with no regard for safety. I was happy to get out of the more trafficked section coming out of Estes Park and on to more remote stretches with less cars. That being said, the ride was quite nice once away from the population center and I moved along steadily, stopping a few times to enjoy views of Longs Peak and other attractions.
      Getting ready to stop for the night I came in to a tiny blip on the map called Ward, CO.. I pulled in to the only business that looked open, the Millsite Inn, and there was a pizza sign out front... oh how I hoped I'd be able to score a pizza before trying to find some place to camp for the night... No such luck, upon bellying up to the bar for a soda they informed me that they weren't making pizza this night. Shucks! I slammed down a couple of sodas, chatted with the bartender who was very personable and told of some of the local history and inquired about any place up the road to camp. She told me of a locals spot not to far down the road and to look for a gated road that supposedly had a platform to set a tent up not too far off the highway. I thanked her and started rolling. In the twilight I must have missed the supposedly obvious gated road and just kept pedaling for a while until I found a dirt jug-handle pull-off next to the highway somewhere between Ward and Nederland. I set up my tent behind a dirt pile in the pull-off to deter any curiosity from people on the highway and crawled inside. As I was falling asleep I had the thought that I hoped no-one would come whizzing through the jug-handle that night at highway speeds and take me out. Traffic seemed infrequent I told myself as I drifted off to sleep thinking of what may await me in the weeks to come on Tour Divide. This was the end of day 2 pedaling to Denver.



Didn't catch the Day 1 post? Here's a link to it.

Arizona Trail, here I come.

     The Arizona Trail Race 750. It's been on my mind since before I toed the line for the Tour Divide.
     The desert. It's the place on earth I'm least familiar with.
     The challenge. To fight my mind, body, fears, and preconceptions and make it to Utah.
     Am I nervous? Definitely.

     April 3rd on Trackleaders.

Pedaling Steamboat Springs to Denver to catch a ride to Tour Divide - Day 1

     June 4th, 2014. The day I woke up, packed the last of my things, and left for my eventual arrival in Banff, AB for the start of this years Tour Divide.
     After getting the last of my things together I said my goodbyes and started pedaling up RCR16 towards Lynx Pass. It was a beautiful day and I was finally under way. The adventure I had trained for for two years, finally going to be realized. Starting my ride from just south of Steamboat Springs, I was headed to Denver to catch a ride to the Grand Depart in Banff with Leslie Handy, Andrew Schuhmann, and Jefe Branham. A three day tour down to the front range that would be a final shakedown for my gear and finalization that my legs were feeling good.
     As I climbed the dirt road towards Lynx Pass I was all smiles, so happy to finally be pedaling with a purpose other than training. I kept going through my gear list in my mind, thinking "did I remember my...[insert item from the list here]." After going through the seemingly endless list I ascertained that I had only forgotten my whistle that I wear around my neck. I could replace that easily... I'm happily under way.
     Lynx Pass was an almost daily ride for me, the climb is right out of my driveway, as I got over the top of it this day I stopped for a quick photo opportunity and some liquids.

Lynx Pass on a beautiful day.

     Pressing onward I descended off of Lynx Pass to HWY134, a ride of just a few miles, the dirt road straight as an arrow until it's eventual intersection with asphalt. I took a left on the asphalt at the intersection of HWY134 and headed towards Gore Pass, leaving this part of the GDMBR that I had spent so many long hours training on until I would return, finally riding in the Tour Divide.
  Winding as it climbs to Gore Pass over a few miles HWY134 is a highway like any other, tires whirring on the pavement I smacked my pedals hard. In a short amount of time I gained to the top of the pass, stopping once again to chronicle my adventure and shoot a few photos for myself and those following at home. Named after Sir St. George Gore, Gore Pass is a historic and mostly forgotten pass that was once guided by Jim Bridger. The placard in the photo below tells the full story.

Gore Pass historic placard.

     I, of course, also had to take the obligatory bike shot at the "Gore Pass" sign.

Gore Pass - 9524' above sea level.

     The east side of Gore Pass is a long, fast downhill, I pushed off on the asphalt and in seconds was zipping along with the wind in my hair. Quickly making my way towards the intersection of HWY40 and arrival in Kremmling. On many of my training rides I had made my way through Kremmling and always like to stop at Big Shooter Coffee when I'm in town. Sean, the owner, is a very accomplished cyclist who is fun to visit with and they always have great breakfast burritos and a nice shot of espresso waiting.
   After spilling out into the valley on HWY134 I swung a right on HWY40, this would take me the last few miles in to town. As I passed by the familiar "Welcome to Kremmling" sign I couldn't wait to get to the coffee shop and have a nice espresso. Kremmling, CO is billed as "Sportsman's Paradise" which I would dare-say it is. The number of Pronghorn I see in this area is unreal.

      I arrived at Big Shooter Coffee, went in, had a quick talk with Sean while I was drinking my espresso and told him I'd see him in a few weeks as I headed south in the event I had trained so hard for. He wished me luck and I headed out.
     Back on HWY 40 eastbound I made my way across the wide and beautiful valley, HWY40 through this section of the state is part of the Colorado River Headwaters Scenic Byway. To the south within sight was RCR33 as it wound it's way towards the Williams Fork reservoir, a section of the GDMBR that I had not pre-ridden. As I pedaled past I pondered what it was like up in that area, and hoped I'd have the resolve to make it this far in the race and find out.

Colorado River Headwaters Scenic Byway sign on US HWY40

     The blue sky smiled down on me as I made my way towards Hot Sulphur Springs, a few clouds moving through the sky and me, a small dot moving steadily overland. I noted in my mind that this was one of the few times I had seen a near wind-less valley here. Usually the wind howls in the afternoon in these parts, rising up the Colorado River through Gore Canyon it belches out into the valley and whips it's way east. I didn't mind not having the tailwind, I was just happy to not have a headwind. As I neared Hot Sulphur Springs I entered Byers Canyon, a relatively insignificant canyon historically, it forms a beautiful gateway coming in to Hot Sulphur Springs from the west.

Byers Canyon just west of Hot Sulphur Springs, CO on HWY40

     After winding my way upwards through Byers Canyon I entered Hot Sulphur Springs, my espresso from Kremmling was wearing off and I looked around for some place to get a soda. I remembered there was a cafe` in town from the last time I drove through headed to Winter Park to ski the winter before, whether it would be open I had no idea.

Entering Hot Sulphur Springs

     Just as I entered town I saw the sign for the cafe` I had remembered, "The Glory Hole." I pulled in to the parking lot, dismounted, and leaned my bike against the side of the rather eccentric old building, clamoring inside. A very nice lady(who's name I'm sorry to say I forget) emerged from the kitchen and informed me of a couple things they were out of on the menu. I told her I was just riding through and simply wanted a cold soda before heading onward. She served me up a cold one and chatted me up for a few moments while I sat and enjoyed the effervescence of carbonation and sweet taste of high fructose corn syrup on my tongue. After lingering a few minutes I emptied my soda and bid farewell to my hostess. "On to Granby!" I said as I made my way out the door.
     It was mid-afternoon now and I was making good time, with thoughts of things past and things yet-to-come dancing in my head I pedaled my way further, Granby, CO getting ever closer. My aspirations for the day were to reach the edge of Rocky Mountain National Park, Granby would be the logical resupply for the night so I went into town to get some food. As I entered Granby I was enticed by a small bike shop on the left, "Full Circle Cyclery". I stopped in and looked at a couple of Borealis carbon fat bikes while having a nice conversation with the owner and telling him a bit about where I came from and where I was headed. After our conversation I had him ring me up for a Presta-to-Schroeder adapter and he gave me a Full Circle Cyclery sticker. I asked directions to the Mad Munchies Sub Shop I had seen a sign for on the way in to town, he explained how to get there and I left to grab a couple of sub sandwiches for dinner and breakfast.
    As I walked out of Mad Munchies Sub Shop after madly munching a sub I chuckled at the name and stuffed a second sub and some chips into my backpack. Time to roll on towards Rocky Mountain National Park. On the way out of Granby I stopped at a gas station and re-stocked on energy food and hydration needs for the next days ride not knowing whether some of the small and extremely seasonal vacation towns ahead would have any stores open this early in the season. The road out of Granby starts to creep uphill, making it's way towards the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park. On it's way up it passes along the shores of Lake Granby giving way to the beginnings of spectacular views of RMNP in the distance, a pleasure to pedal past.

Lake Granby with the snowy peaks of RMNP in the background.

     After making my way past Lake Granby and passing a few scattered seasonal restaurants and motels I eventually came to Grand Lake. Grand Lake is another stunningly beautiful lake at the foot of RMNP. I took a short detour in to the town proper to see if I could get the skinny on camping for the night. I was nearing RMNP. The town was all but shut down, too early in the season for most businesses to be operating. I made my way down the main street watching for Wi-Fi reception on my phone and found some free internet to poach near a local restaurant that had a public hot spot. With the lack of open businesses and relatively few people wandering the streets I felt like I was sitting in an old ghost town. I charged my phone at an outlet I found outside the restaurant and pecked at my phone uploading some pictures from the day for family and friends to see. I asked a couple of the locals on the street about camping and they mentioned there was a camping area just a mile or so up the road before the entrance to RMNP. I thanked them for the info and started off to find it.

     Within about fifteen minutes I pulled past the Elk Creek Campground, as described it was right at the border of RMNP. I rode a block past the campground and got a picture of the sign and headed back to get a campsite.

Entering Rocky Mountain National Park

     When I checked in to the Elk Creek Campground the woman tending the counter was very accommodating, she gave me a remote tent site like I had asked for and explained to me that they have been seeing Moose in the area I'd be camping in quite often lately. I noted that, grabbed a soda and a candy bar to enjoy while setting up camp and proceeded to my site. A decent site amongst the willows, definitely seemed like a likely place to see some moose. I lazily set up my tent as dusk arrived and sipped on an Izze sparkling fruit beverage. As I crawled in the tent to go to sleep for the night I looked at my bike laying next to the tent, thought of the moose, and just hoped if they wandered in to camp in the night they wouldn't step in my spokes... Thinking of the wonderful day I had, the ground I had covered and wondering what the next day would bring, I drifted off into a deep slumber. To be continued...

If interested in seeing the actual route taken, the Strava activity is available here.